A step into Nubia and back to Egypt

On Thursday morning, we sailed into Aswan, considered “the gateway to Africa”.  The city boasts a large population of Nubians who share a common faith in Islam but have different attire, music, and language.  We disembarked the ship for the last time, and were driven through the winding streets of the city to the airport.  There we boarded a plane to Abu Simbel, 240 kilometers to the southwest and a stone’s throw from Sudan.  

On the banks of Lake Nasser loomed the massive iconic temple that Ramses II built for himself and then another for his favorite wife Nefertari.  When the Nasser Dam was built in the seventies, there was a worldwide effort to save the temples.  In a massive engineering feat, the temples were taken apart and then raised to higher ground where they were then identically recreated.  It was hard to tell that anything had ever been done.  Inside, exploits of Ramses the warrior King were colorfully illustrated on the walls.  Similarly, in Nefertari’s temple, her beauty was displayed in various forms – as a queen in the company of the goddess Iris, in the form of the goddess Hathor, and surrounded by flowers.

The earth around Abu Simbel was quite different than anywhere else.  It was black soil in the shapes of natural pyramids.  The air was clear and the sky was cobalt blue.  Even though our time there was limited to a half day, we were quite glad to have visited.

The longer we stayed in Egypt, the more hustling we encountered. Or maybe we were just less tolerant of it.  It was tiring at times always saying no.  We were not even looking to buy anything.  I did find a women’s cooperative where prices were set and not only did I appreciate the fair trade exchange, it was stress-free shopping.

Back in Luxor we took the late afternoon train north to Luxor.  We met a man with whom I became quite conversant.  He traveled around different parts of the country trying to prepare students to take the SAT, and we talked at great lengths about the test’s faults and teaching the complexities of the English language. Parents paid huge sums of money for their children to take a SAT prep class (of which he received very little).  His job was extremely difficult as he tried to help students for whom English was a second language (and hasn’t been studied enough  at that) to take a culturally biased exam.

We arrived in Luxor for another couple of nights but this time decided to stay in the city proper, on the East Bank of the Nile.  It was a completely different experience than staying on the quieter domestic West Bank.  It was a much busier place, which also meant more hustle.  We stayed at the very simple yet comfortable Nefertiti Hotel, which overlooked the Luxor Temple.  We were pleased with a few of its features – nice cotton sheets, a rooftop terrace overlooking Luxor Temple, and BBC news which we had not seen since Kuwait.  It has the clientele of a backpacking place but that lent itself to some nice conversations.  It was right next to the Old Souk which we ventured into a few times, and we spent hours looking out over the river and the street below.

Overall, we didn’t feel that we had eaten too much, except for the bread.  The Egyptian flat bread was chewy and delicious; we can also get it in Kuwait.  But it is possible to have too much of a good thing and we resolved to go on a bread/refined carb fast for a month when we return.  The thing about it here was that is a core part of any meal and so difficult to avoid.

Like every day on this trip, our days were long, and we filled them by reading, writing, and doing some sightseeing.  Over the course of two days, we had four short excursions.  The first was interesting, the second disappointing, the third spectacular, and the fourth was right in the middle.  To start off, located on the Corniche, the Luxor Museum was a pleasant surprise.  Well-orchestrated and informative, it highlighted statues, artifacts, mummies, and other relics from many of the tombs and temples that we had already seen.  It definitely helped to put things in perspective.  It was also here that we learned that we could have gotten teacher discounts at all the monuments, but better late than never.

One of the modes of transportation on the Nile is the felucca, a sailing boat that we had seen several times criss-crossing the river.  Our short passage down to Banana Island was made considerable longer by the fact that there was no wind, and of course no motor.  Banana Island in itself was not much more than a series of small groves of banana and guava trees, which we were handed plenty to eat.  The two guys on board rowed for most of the way back.  The trip was not what either Russ or I expected, but it also wasn’t an awful way to spend the late afternoon.

I never thought I would take a hot-air balloon ride but that is what we did Thursday morning to watch the sun rise over the Valleys of the Kings, Queens, Nobles, Artisans, and Workers.  It was amazing to sail over temples and glimpse a birds-eye view of farm life below.  We were blown away by how amazing it was.

Later that day we went across the street to the Luxor Temple.  Smaller than the Karnak Temple to which it is connected to (but hasn’t been excavated yet), it was another monument to Ramses II, who must have been quite an egotistical ruler as his temples and monuments seem to be bigger and more impressive than anyone else’s.  It was here that we hit the {Ancient Egyptian history} wall, but enjoyed the warm sunshine of the afternoon and appreciated the fine architecture.

Cruising the Nile

Russ and I have never been on a cruise, nor have they particularly appealed to us until now.  The Solaris II was a small ship with a capacity of 150 guests; again during Christmas week at the height of the season it only had half as many people.  Our spacious room was quiet on the top deck in the middle of the boat – the Honeymoon Suite we were told (we most certainly made a good connection in order to score this).  It boasted two large windows, a king bed, balcony, and a bathroom completely encased in marble.  It was very comfortable and it gave us ample time to relax while enjoying the scenic pastoral panorama.   In fact, it was the best part of the boat.

For all the luxury however, the Solaris did not offer the haute cuisine that we’ve heard so much about from others on larger ships.  The food was standard, a mostly meat-and-potatoes menu, although fish and a variety of vegetables were always available. This probably saved us from too much overeating.  I did have the opportunity to try a couple of aspics to know that I don’t care for them at all.  (I just finished reading the biography of Julia Child, “Dearie”, and even that could not persuade me).  Overall, the desserts were a highlight – custards, tarts, and chocolate creations were well worth sampling.  Breakfasts were our favorite meal of the day by far with fresh yogurt, cheese, eggs, freshly baked bread, jams, and fruit. We were able to eat fairly light but even without the 24-hour buffet stereotypical of cruise ships, it was still a lot of food with breakfast at 7:00, lunch at 1:00, a proper English tea at 4:00 and dinner at 7:30.  We had assigned seating but being virtually the only native English speakers on board, interactions with others were limited.

On board, Spaniards dominated, although the menu items were written in German.  The crew was obviously used to Europeans and frequently addressed us in another language.  There were smaller groups of Indians, Germans, and Italians, but absolutely no Americans.  Everyone we talked with came to the same conclusion - the Americans are afraid to come to Egypt.  And yet for all the images of Tahrir Square in protest, this is the safest country we have travelled to in a long time. 

Evening entertainment on board was limited to sitting in the lounge.  The Spaniards were a lively group and were keen to samba (which they made look extremely simple).  Apparently late one evening there was Egyptian belly dancing but by 10:30 we were headed for bed.  We have slept incredibly well.  An advantage to not being on a tour was that we could set our own schedule.  When one group departed at 5 am, we could leave at 8 and still see the same sights.  We pretty much ate when we wanted.

This being the holiday season in the Christian world, the majority of the ship was tackily outfitted with Christmas décor – a plastic Nativity in the lobby, streamers in the dining room, a sizeable tree in on our floor, a Santa Claus to greet us.  The staff effusively greeted us daily with “Merry Christmas” and “Happy New Year”, and it was another surreal December experience to add to our list of unusual holiday celebrations (Chinese food in Kenya, braai’s in Namibia and Botswana, soaking up the sun on the Siesta Key beach).

Along the river to Aswan, we stopped and saw two monuments which were built in the 200-50 BC era by the Ptolemys.  Reflecting Greco-Roman design, they also paid homage to the traditional Egyptian religion. Not thinking that anything could rival the glory of Karnak, we were pleasantly surprised upon entering Edfu and the Temple of Horus shortly after sunrise on Wednesday.  This was the most complete temple in the entire country and provided us with opportunity to see detailed reliefs up close.  Of note, several Pharaonic  figures had been chipped away not in theft as we saw in earlier places but apparently because they were disliked. 

Most of the time we had on board was spent lounging in the sun or shade and watching small villages hidden behind palm trees and bushreeds, lush fields and groves, desert dunes, and fishing boats pass by.  It was tranquil and occasionally we fell asleep. Russ has been reading Unbroken, and I just finished Eats, Shoots, Leaves.

Just after sunset we arrived at Kom Ombo which was situated right on the water.  The temple was lit up and that gave us a much different appreciation for the same style of architecture that we had seen in the morning.  A unique feature was that it was dedicated to not one god but two – Horus and the Crocodile god Sokor, who was seen as a significant creator deity.  It was smaller than any of the other monuments we had seen but spectacular in its detail.  The museum showed mummified crocodiles which were given the same burial rites as the kings, such was their status.

Raising a glass of Christmas cheer

I've been getting a lot of questions about Christmas.  Nothing about the details of the holiday, rather it's more along the lines of "I would like to wish you a Merry Christmas.  Is it too early to do that?"  In fact I am getting more "Merry Christmas" greetings from women draped in black abayas than I have from Western colleagues.  It's awfully nice to hear.

Christmas music and balsam candles continue going in my office and at home, and it sets quite a cheerful mood.

Despite whether Christmas is actually celebrated, everyone seems to know it is the season of treats.  Like every other American school campus in the world I imagine, the teacher room has been full all week with homemade and catered cakes, chocolates, cookies, and fatayer (a savory Middle Eastern pastry that I love).  There have been parties and get togethers on the weekends at the apartment complex, and somehow these seem to outnumber our visits to the gym.

With one day left before vacation, tonight Russ and I are bucking the routine that most teachers have here of working long hours after school, and instead are hosting a cocktail party to enjoy our friends one more time before we scatter to various holiday destinations.  It is safe to say that everyone we know here is desparately craving a change of scenery and a much-deserved break.

As if we needed to eat any more this entire week, we are hosting our good friends the Nicholsons, Marlenders, and Nancy - and five of their kids - for Christmas dinner on Friday afternoon.  They are all staying in Kuwait over the next two weeks, and Russ and I have been looking forward to sharing part of their holiday for a few weeks now.  I managed to find a nine pound turkey that will provide some of the not-too-traditional buffet.  Salmon! Pecan pie! Beiruty hummus and cured olives! will make up some of the smorgasbord. 

January 1 college applications are wrapping up, but in my entire career, there are always a couple of students waiting until the last minute to START the process.  Considering that school documents need to be sent before the school closes, this is daunting for the students but I have come to expect it every year, so it is not really a surprise.

What may be a surprise to most people is where I send my next blog from, so stay tuned...

Seasonal change

We just turned off the a/c two nights ago and in doing so, entered another season.  The temperatures are autumn-like and very pleasant.  It is a relief to finally have the cool air off at night, as it dehydrates us completely.   I still wear sandals but throw on a light jacket in the morning.  We have had more than five days of rain in the past two weeks, which is a lot more than usual.  Unfortunately, it is not a clean rain; with so much dust in the air, the drops hit the ground not to wash away the dirt it but to make things worse.  On the upside, the skies are a little clearer than at other times of the year.

The cooler weather made Thanksgiving last week seem a little more like back home.  After school on Thursday, we invited some good friends over for a copious spread of comfort foods and much laughter.  I have said it so many times before, the people we know are the best part of the living here.  We saw parts of all three football games.  The next day, Russ took our leftovers to the group of workers building another highrise behind our apartment complex.  He also collected canned and boxed food from people and we cooked up meals for the week to take to them.  He has really reached out to them and likes to stop on his way to and from the gym.  Even with the language barrier, much is communicated without words.

I love the Christmas season.  I have a small decorated tree in my office and we have a four foot pine at home with sparkling white lights and whimsical heart and handmade Swedish decorations.  As soon as we get home, we light the candles and play Christmas music throughout the evening.  I also play instrumental holiday music all day at work and that instantly raises my spirits.  Despite being Muslim in a desert country, most Kuwaitis know about the secular commercial aspects of Christmas, and seeing decorations (although quite scaled-down) in school or the malls is not uncommon.  Our social calendar is filling up quickly with holiday cheer in the last three weeks before school lets out. 

We have given our notice at school and will not be returning next year.  We have known for a very long time that Kuwait is not the place for us, but just recently confirmed with ourselves that we are indeed headed home.  Even compared to our options (tempting to stay overseas in the Far East or Europe), we find ourselves drawn back to the Berkshires.  So we are in the middle of developing professional websites, refreshing resumes, and investigating options.  Not surprising, there are many people who will also be leaving the school next year, which makes for a weird dynamic sometimes. 

So in several ways, the seasons are changing here and we are moving with the flow of things.

Reflection from the airport lounge

The past three days and half days have been a blur of French hospitality, aesthetically pleasing surroundings, and a conference that was well-worth my while.  Now that I have copious time between two flights, I can spend some time thinking about my impressions of Monaco.

The country is a narrow stretch of land between the sea and the tail-end of the Alps.  High-rise apartment buildings are built up the steep mountains, and in general it is a very hilly city to walk, but the increase in exercise balances out the food excesses. Space is at a premium and creatively used.  The architecture in general reflects a Mediterranean influence, and local granite, marble, and terra cotta tiles are used.  Outside of Singapore, it is the cleanest city I have ever been in.
 
The few kilometers of country are roughly divided into several neighborhoods, and without traffic, it seems like it only takes fifteen minutes from one end to the other.  Every time we took the bus from our hotel in Fountvielle to the Grimaldi Forum, it felt like a tour.

There is no passport control.  Monaco is essentially a French protectorate, so there is also no immigration post at the border.  In fact, there is not even a "Bienvenue à Monaco" sign.  With the exception of the red and white flags of the Principality flying everywhere, there would be little difference between the two countries except that Monegasques seem to be fiercely proud of their tiny city state.  

Boutiques, galleries, and cafes dot the waterfront, and in this off-season the atmosphere was laidback, giving me the feeling that I had the place to myself.  The area I enjoyed the most was Le Rocher, the pedestrian-only part of the city, high on a hill.  The palace and cathedral look over the rest of the country from a walled fortress. Everything was tastefully done, almost to the point of understatement.  No garish displays, no flaunting of the enormous wealth it is famous for. There seems to be a Catholic church on every corner, and I think historically there are strong ties to the Vatican.

The French of course prefer to speak their language, so I tried really hard with my remedial phrases.  Most of the time, it seemed appreciated and they graciously switched over to English.  Predictably, the service was outstanding.  The food of course was too.  Even the so-called fast food places we saw look appealing.  Our food was served in small portions with robust and yet also complimentary flavors.  Naturally, the fruit also was smaller and tastier that what I am used to. Yes, the Monegasques know all about Joie de vivre.

There is a James Bond element here - the helicopter pad was located steps away from my hotel.  Women are well-dressed.   Cocktails in swank bars were upwards of thirty euros.  The three harbors were parking lots for the largest yachts I have ever seen.  On land, I saw Ferrari and Rolls Royce dealerships. It seemed like a faux pas to ask for a test drive though.

Of course real people live and work here too, and I enjoyed my time in Carrefour, a French store we also have in Kuwait similar to a Super Target in style and design.  Of course this store was nothing like in Kuwait.  The cheese aisle, pate selection, and wine offerings were immense.  I also saw cashmere sweaters in plastic wrap on sale for 39 euros and silk scarves.  Needless to say there was no acrylic in this place.  Next door was Decathlon, a sporting goods store, full of ski equipment and clothing.  Initially overwhelmed, I actually found a pair of ski pants that I'll need for a trip to Innsbruck in February, and remarkably it was cheaper than what I could buy in the US.  Our shuttle driver told us that is occasionally snows but it never stays.  It is rarely truly cold and people stay outside for most of the year.  To have that and skiing so close is truly the best of both worlds!

I was glad to attend the conference.  While the sessions were ok, the networking opportunities were outstanding.  Rarely did connections take six degrees of separation; common ground was instead found in one or two.  Schools were represented from all over the world - Mongolia to Argentina to Taiwan to Zimbabwe.  Many of the college reps who had visited our school in Kuwait were also there and I met many others.  There were four or five people that I hung out with during free time, and we had some really great conversations.

I felt good about my presentation and it was a boost to get so much positive feedback.  It was the only session of its kind dealing with psychosocial aspects, and there is a need to have more in the areas of dealing with parents, ethical issues with applications, and stress management for counselors.  I will need this boost as I return to Kuwait.

Now, as I sit in Germany, I also appreciate the common sense, good taste, and efficiency.  This has been a good mental break for me and I wish Russ could have joined me.

Eddy Merckx and ham rolls

It's been quite a day and I am not even sure where to start.

My presentation went over extremely well.  How do I know this?  People responded with questions, gave scenarios, and there was a good discussion overall.  Thank goodness for fifty minutes, but we actually went over the time, which is always a good sign when you are the one up front.

It was an amazing day - totally intellectually stimulating being around so many people on the international counseling scene.  Good breakout sesssions.  Gorgeous day outside (I skipped one session to walk along the waterfront).  It completely reminds me of Santa Barbara and Montecito; even the air smells the same. 

Let me start by describing last night.  I slept for the first time since the Berkshires with the window open and it was silent.  Until the birds started chirping in the pre-dawn hours.  Incredible way to start the day.  The sun only came up at 7:00.

I had a lovely breakfast at the hotel, in true European fashion with hard boiled eggs, cheese, and cured meats on crusty rolls (which I normally don't eat except that it seemed to be a major faux paux to pass up.)  I also had yogurt and muesli which is what I typically consume except that it tasted so much more, well French.  Then we arrived at the Grimaldi Forum where I consumed more than one chocolate croissant.  I mean, how can one come to Europe and not partake in the decadent pastries?  Lunch was a three-course affair with a wine selection and view of the Mediterranean.  Did I mention that this is actually a work trip?

I am happy to have met two delightful women here (who begged me to remain anonymous).  One I knew previously and the other I just met yesterday.  We met up after the conference and walked over to the infamous Monaco Casino, which is exactly as you might imagine from any James Bond movie you've seen.  It was quite glamorous, except that we did not see anyone in a tuxedo with martini in hand, this of course being Wednesday evening at 6:30.  We blew five euro each on the slots, not winning anything and walked next door to the "Sparkling Cocktail Reception" to which we had been invited.

Champagne flutes were handed to us as we entered the rooftop lounge of the Fairmont.  What happened next was a blur.  The president of the European University started talking about this Tour de France champion who was somehow supporting a new sports administration major, and I looked over and knew without doubt and before his name was announced that it was Eddy Merckx.  Then I started (mildly) freaking out, like "I have to get a photo, no one is going to believe this".  My camera died.  But fortunately, my colleague took a photo of me and Eddy as he was walking out.  I probably embarrassed myself  gushing "Hi I'm Stephanie, I am such a big fan, my husband is not going to believe this."  Crazy American.  He was of course quite gentile and gracious.  Looks good for his age.  Not quite as high on the list as when we talked to Desmond Tutu in 2003, but still resonated star power.

Meanwhile my two comrades were fixated on the food which of course was top-notch...even the ham rolls, which were little finger sandwiches were tucked away into clear plastic Christmas balls.  Somehow along the way the three of us decided that these were most desired and we ended up each snatching and stashing several each.  I am not sure what I am going to do with them but there was talk about how they would make perfect Christmas decorations, minus the roll.  We have the champagne to blame but it was a small price to pay for an outrageously funny evening.  I felt like I was twenty years old and out on my own for the first time.  We are all in our forties, and it was a complete riot.

More about the food.  Gold dust seems to be a popular addition to serious dark chocolate creations.   Now, getting ready for bed, how can I possibly eat again?  Tomorrow is another day and anything is possible.  Yes, this is a work trip.

The long road to Monaco

The week was already off to a good start.  Early Sunday morning, we received the text that school was cancelled because of the 50^th anniversary of Kuwait’s constitution.  The timing was perfect.  During the previous week we had the school’s accreditation process while at the same time students were making up tests from the Eid holiday and getting ready for the end of the quarter.  It was a week filled with too many meetings to count, anxious college applicants, and numerous differences of opinion.  We were mentally and physically tired.  So, to have a day to do a whole lot of nothing was gift.  We slept in, went to the gyms, watched tv, racked a batch of wine, and pretty much nothing else. 

I am now in the Principality of Monaco, for my first Council of International Schools (CIS) conference.  My ticket in was the submission of a workshop proposal entitled “Addressing the Emotional Needs of College Applicants”, which was surprisingly accepted.  It should be nothing new to these folks but I hope to spin the paradigm a bit in which we work.  That will happen tomorrow.  Today, I had the great pleasure to explore this tiny country, which I can pretty much navigate on foot from the hotel. 

Right away this trek outside of Kuwait was different than any other.  I arrived at the airport at 11 pm to find no one there, and a general calm which is in stark contrast to how it usually is. I settled into the Pearl Lounge and once again gave thanks for having secured a Diner’s Club card that gave me access. It is really is a more sophisticated way to travel  especially with the prospect of flying business class outside my grasp.  Likewise, the plane was not full, and for the first time in recent memory, I was able to stretch out over an entire row.  That meant that I actually got to sleep for a few hours, which in itself was remarkable.  Furthermore, arriving at the Frankfurt airport was a pleasant surprise.  At 5:30 am, it was incredibly quiet and I was able to find a quiet dark corner.  I forewent the lounge as it is requires switching terminals and going through passport control twice.  I just was not up to it today.  It remained dark outside until about 7:30 and the temperature was just below freezing!

We arrived in Nice in the late morning.  Flying over the Alps was spectacular and coming into the French Riviera was just as you might imagine - yachts and sailboats dotting the harbors, the clear waters of the Meditteranen, and  steep mountains reaching down to the seas.  Open space is at a premium, and buildings seems to be built on top of each other.  

I was happy to see Ross, a veteran counselor from Kuwait who I knew another conference, and Leslie, my former boss from Simon's Rock College.  After the hour bus ride from Nice, Isettled in to the Hotel Columbus, a small boutique hotel on the waterfront.  I love the view from my room and I'll leave the window open for the first time since leaving the Berkshires.  It was sunny and pleasantly warm, a nice change from the dusty heat of Kuwait and the grey dampness of Frankfurt.

Found a small cafe to eat a late lunch at in the Old City (which is closed to cars and features pedestrian only alleys and streets) and then walked around for a few hours.  It is all very French, and awfully expensive.  Foregoing dinner, I am now getting things ready for the conference and the presentation tomorrow.