Our days have been relatively laidback as we sleep in and take the mornings easy. I have had a chest cold and it feels good to be off-schedule. We've enjoyed our breakfast of yogurt, dried apricots and nuts. Russ discovered hazelnut butter (like nutella without the chocolate and hydrogenated oil) and we are big fans of that on bread along with copious cups of tea.
One day we did not go out until quite late in the day because it was cold and rainy outside. Instead, we watched season three of Downton Abbey, episodes of Anthony Bourdain, and bought a car that we will pick up in Nashville. Quite productive - its a wonder what can be done with skype and the internet.
While I have nursed my cold, Russ has been venturing out into the neighborhoods, meeting fruit vendors and shoemakers. There are craftsmen of all kinds which are a real pleasure to watch in action.
We have walked and walked all over Sultanahmet. Istanbul was built on seven hills and the streets are notoriously steep. It is a good exercise-food ratio that keeps us in balance.
The markets have been a pleasant surprise. Both the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market were not as touristy as expected and the hassle was minimal. We went just to look but found a few trinkets. It was a sight for the senses - jeweled garmets, Iznik ceramic dishes, Persian and Turkish carpets, nuts, colorful spices, and a range of Chinese-made goods. As it rained during both visits, the covered buildings were a welcome relief. We've gone back twice to bothfor the sensory overload which is a wonderful thing when you are not buying anything.
Although out of the way, we found the train station which was the destination for the Orient Express. It was much like other colonial-era stations we have seen: impressive in stature and grand in style.
I love watching Russ immerse himself in conversations with locals and taking photos. That is as enjoyable as anything else. He also finds the most interesting items while shopping - he bought a hat at an out-of-the-way leathermaker and found some Afghan wood prints. For someone who does not like to shop, travel shopping I think is enjoyable for him.
The waterfront along the Bosporus Strait was lively on the weekend. We had another great lunch there; I had a fish sandwich and Russ had a fish stew - both were delicious. While most menus feature the same Turkish fare, we have been able to find a few surprises. Korean food was excellent one afternoon and the fish has always been good. Tonight I had rice pudding from down the street while Russ had lentil soup and the best spinach we tried in a long time.
While it rained yesterday, today was spendidly clear and beautiful so we hopped on a small boat that cruised up and down the Bosporus. It really felt like the Rhine cruise we took last summer as much of the scenery could have been most anywhere in the world (except Kuwait).
A pleasant surprise came today from my mom's recommendation to see the Chora church and museum. Built around the same time as the Hagia Sophia in the sixth century, it boasted a tremendous collection of well-preserved Byzantine frescoes and mosaics, some say the best in the world. It is remarkable not only that they lasted over 1500 years but were not destroyed when the church later became a mosque. We saw that again and again - a monument to the wisdom of the rulers at the time.
Late one afternoon, Russ discovered a Pittsfield connection. A friend of a friend lives and works in Istanbul as a fabric designer and co-owner of a felt store (her partner is considered to be one of the best felters in Turkey). Amazing creations and craftsmanship! We later discovered that she is distantly related to Russ' mom.
We love our neighborhood and will be sad to leave it tomorrow. but looking forward to the adventures that lay in front of us!
So ends the Q8 Report.
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