I can still smell the earthy woodsy scent of frankincense burning in the Muttrah souk. It is intoxicating but not in the drug induced state one might think. It is enveloping and becomes part of the atmosphere, part of the comfort we quickly found ourselves in once we settled into our time in Muscat, Oman.
Mom and Dad arrived a few days earlier to Kuwait. Everyone was tired, expecting arrival at 11:30 am and the actual time ending up only at 5:00 am. Fortunately, they were able to sleep before I booked them at the Hilton spa where I later met up with them. Russ and I just forged ahead at school. Russ met us later at the apartment where we ordered in Indian food and relaxed. Thursday was the start of Eid Al-Adha and our five day weekend. We spent the day walking the waterfront, going to an IMAX movie about the explorer Ibn Battuta, and visiting our school. Russ introduced my dad to the Mahboula barber across the street, and we later invited Justin and Sarah over for a salmon bbq.
Church was Friday morning and then we headed to the airport for the two hour flight to Muscat. We did not take into account how busy everything would be with the holiday. Our rental car was not waiting for us; instead of fighting the system we decided to just taxi everywhere, even if we had to give up on going to the wadis. Our hotel room was also given away, but that resulted in an upgrade. Just like in Africa, we just went with the flow.
Coming into Muscat was like arriving on another planet - blue skies, fresh air, and generally aesthetically pleasant, a change from dusty beige Kuwait. We spent the first day going into the Old City, making requisite stops at the Sultan's palace and Beit al-Zubair (historical museum). Then we came back to the hotel for lunch and a swim before walking the long length of a nearby beach.
Our days were long and relaxed, sleeping in, sitting by the pool, and playing cards in the evening. Russ and I went over for drinks at the Intercontinental Hotel across the street. It was a lovely time. Another morning was spent in the souk, shopping for small trinkets, essential oils, frankincense, and silver. A small microcosm of larger markets in the Middle East, this old souk was easy to navigate, a sort of Intro to Arab Shopping course.
We ate Lebanese food daily, which is our staple in Kuwait as well and drank freshly squeezed guava, avocado, and pomengranate juices. Mom brought dried apricots from Turkey. We always seem to eat well wherever we go.
We missed the morning tour of the Grand Mosque but walked around the outside. Quite spectacular.
Dad and Mom flew back to Kuwait with us Monday night but stayed in the lounge while we left. As Russ and I exited the customs area, we walked into a cascade of rose petals and confetti, which was intended for Hajj pilgrims returning from Mecca. We felt silly walking through a throng of well-wishers.
In the middle of our three-day week, we must get ready now to hand out candy to the little kids in the complex, of course saving a little for ourselves later on.
Wednesday, October 31, 2012
Monday, October 22, 2012
A break in the day
I just ate a pork dumpling that one of my Korean students brought in. I asked where she got the pork and got the diplomatic answer "no one knows". Delicious! An unexpected treat.
Recently, I think I am learning more Hindi than Arabic from the taxi drivers and cleaning staff at the school. Not that I expect to be able to converse in either.
I got a ride from an Afghani taxi driver yesterday and it was about the friendliest conversation I have had here. In his broken English (which was quite good) I found out that he's been here for years with his parents and brother, the Taliban is very very bad, he never went to school but speaks five languages, Kuwait is not a good place to work but the money is good, and the northern mountains in his country are beyond belief. The fifteen minute discussion made me smile.
Despite my best efforts, I do not seem to be drinking enough water during the day. The dry air does not help and hopefully within a few weeks we can turn off the a/c as the temperatures settled into the seventies.
Everyone at school is waiting with baited breath to see whether the Ministry of Education will extend the Eid Al-Adhar holiday from five days to ten in order to give time off for Muslims to go to the Hajj in Mecca. For the rest of us, it would just be a great time to catch up on a few things.
Recently, I think I am learning more Hindi than Arabic from the taxi drivers and cleaning staff at the school. Not that I expect to be able to converse in either.
I got a ride from an Afghani taxi driver yesterday and it was about the friendliest conversation I have had here. In his broken English (which was quite good) I found out that he's been here for years with his parents and brother, the Taliban is very very bad, he never went to school but speaks five languages, Kuwait is not a good place to work but the money is good, and the northern mountains in his country are beyond belief. The fifteen minute discussion made me smile.
Despite my best efforts, I do not seem to be drinking enough water during the day. The dry air does not help and hopefully within a few weeks we can turn off the a/c as the temperatures settled into the seventies.
Everyone at school is waiting with baited breath to see whether the Ministry of Education will extend the Eid Al-Adhar holiday from five days to ten in order to give time off for Muslims to go to the Hajj in Mecca. For the rest of us, it would just be a great time to catch up on a few things.
Saturday, October 20, 2012
A cultural weekend
I went to not one but two cultural events this past weekend. In a country where culture is largely defined at the mall or in a chain restaurant, this was refreshing.
On Thursday night, we went to the "Last night of the Proms" based on the larger event in London. A musical evening at the Embassy, the Brits, true to form, threw a great party. After a concert of largely classical pieces, it ended with a flurry of patriotic English songs ("Rule Brittania" still rings in my head). Then the lovely gardens and lawn were transformed into a huge dance party with excellent fish and chips, English beer and a full bar. It did not feel like we were in Kuwait in the least.
Today, I went on a tour of the Arab Funds Headquarters, which houses the Arab chapter of the World Bank, OPEC, and other regional bodies. It is billed as the best of the best Arabesque architecture in the region, and we were not disappointed. By far it was the nicest thing I have seen in Kuwait. For photos, go to http://www.arabfund.org/aohq/KUWAIT.HTM Those pictures will undoubtedly put mine to shame. The craftsmanship and quality of materials were unforgettable.
These two outings should buoy me until we get to our first break of the school year next week. Everyone is tired and a change of scenery for us in Muscat will be most welcome.
On Thursday night, we went to the "Last night of the Proms" based on the larger event in London. A musical evening at the Embassy, the Brits, true to form, threw a great party. After a concert of largely classical pieces, it ended with a flurry of patriotic English songs ("Rule Brittania" still rings in my head). Then the lovely gardens and lawn were transformed into a huge dance party with excellent fish and chips, English beer and a full bar. It did not feel like we were in Kuwait in the least.
Today, I went on a tour of the Arab Funds Headquarters, which houses the Arab chapter of the World Bank, OPEC, and other regional bodies. It is billed as the best of the best Arabesque architecture in the region, and we were not disappointed. By far it was the nicest thing I have seen in Kuwait. For photos, go to http://www.arabfund.org/aohq/KUWAIT.HTM Those pictures will undoubtedly put mine to shame. The craftsmanship and quality of materials were unforgettable.
These two outings should buoy me until we get to our first break of the school year next week. Everyone is tired and a change of scenery for us in Muscat will be most welcome.
Friday, October 12, 2012
End of a very long week
Yesterday, the bus took about an hour to drop us off at the Hilton after school after travailing around major traffic and construction projects (normal time is 35 minutes). I did not follow my normal routine in the gym but headed for the beach where I plopped down on a chaise lounge and fell asleep for 45 minutes as the sun quickly set. Coming home, it was a relief to enter a clean apartment, free of the dust that plagues us. I appreciate Margaret more and more but I don't have the energy to keep up with it all.
It's an understatement to just say it was a long week. The week before was five days of running in all directions with student crises, parent meetings, and a growing stack of paperwork. This week which while busy did not have the "emergency" feel, but was also fraught with some heavy considerations.
We make hundreds if not thousands of decisions a day, I'm told. I usually have no problem deciding what to eat. Most come naturally, some require thought, and a few are taxing like the two serious ethical dilemmas that found me. One involved a student who was suspended and is also applying early decision to a highly selective college. This will not be resolved until I talk with her next week, but I know what I need to do. The other is much more complex involving my employer asking me to do something I am not comfortable with. Nothing illegal, mind you, but that will take much longer to figure out my course of action. Fortunately I think I have some time.
Russ also had some challenging interactions with students, and talking about all of this at home in the short amount of time we spend together wore us out. I think we went to bed at 7:30 a couple of times. Russ was getting over a cold, and I had a migraine on two days. Time to move past this week!
Mom and Dad are on the same time zone, having arrived in Turkey yesterday, but we have not spoken to them yet. Tonight is a big social night and we are expecting 50 people over for happy hour but it will be short-lived at our place before we move on to the next apartment. I think tomorrow I will hit the gym but also crash at the beach again.
It's an understatement to just say it was a long week. The week before was five days of running in all directions with student crises, parent meetings, and a growing stack of paperwork. This week which while busy did not have the "emergency" feel, but was also fraught with some heavy considerations.
We make hundreds if not thousands of decisions a day, I'm told. I usually have no problem deciding what to eat. Most come naturally, some require thought, and a few are taxing like the two serious ethical dilemmas that found me. One involved a student who was suspended and is also applying early decision to a highly selective college. This will not be resolved until I talk with her next week, but I know what I need to do. The other is much more complex involving my employer asking me to do something I am not comfortable with. Nothing illegal, mind you, but that will take much longer to figure out my course of action. Fortunately I think I have some time.
Russ also had some challenging interactions with students, and talking about all of this at home in the short amount of time we spend together wore us out. I think we went to bed at 7:30 a couple of times. Russ was getting over a cold, and I had a migraine on two days. Time to move past this week!
Mom and Dad are on the same time zone, having arrived in Turkey yesterday, but we have not spoken to them yet. Tonight is a big social night and we are expecting 50 people over for happy hour but it will be short-lived at our place before we move on to the next apartment. I think tomorrow I will hit the gym but also crash at the beach again.
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