Seasonal change

We just turned off the a/c two nights ago and in doing so, entered another season.  The temperatures are autumn-like and very pleasant.  It is a relief to finally have the cool air off at night, as it dehydrates us completely.   I still wear sandals but throw on a light jacket in the morning.  We have had more than five days of rain in the past two weeks, which is a lot more than usual.  Unfortunately, it is not a clean rain; with so much dust in the air, the drops hit the ground not to wash away the dirt it but to make things worse.  On the upside, the skies are a little clearer than at other times of the year.

The cooler weather made Thanksgiving last week seem a little more like back home.  After school on Thursday, we invited some good friends over for a copious spread of comfort foods and much laughter.  I have said it so many times before, the people we know are the best part of the living here.  We saw parts of all three football games.  The next day, Russ took our leftovers to the group of workers building another highrise behind our apartment complex.  He also collected canned and boxed food from people and we cooked up meals for the week to take to them.  He has really reached out to them and likes to stop on his way to and from the gym.  Even with the language barrier, much is communicated without words.

I love the Christmas season.  I have a small decorated tree in my office and we have a four foot pine at home with sparkling white lights and whimsical heart and handmade Swedish decorations.  As soon as we get home, we light the candles and play Christmas music throughout the evening.  I also play instrumental holiday music all day at work and that instantly raises my spirits.  Despite being Muslim in a desert country, most Kuwaitis know about the secular commercial aspects of Christmas, and seeing decorations (although quite scaled-down) in school or the malls is not uncommon.  Our social calendar is filling up quickly with holiday cheer in the last three weeks before school lets out. 

We have given our notice at school and will not be returning next year.  We have known for a very long time that Kuwait is not the place for us, but just recently confirmed with ourselves that we are indeed headed home.  Even compared to our options (tempting to stay overseas in the Far East or Europe), we find ourselves drawn back to the Berkshires.  So we are in the middle of developing professional websites, refreshing resumes, and investigating options.  Not surprising, there are many people who will also be leaving the school next year, which makes for a weird dynamic sometimes. 

So in several ways, the seasons are changing here and we are moving with the flow of things.

Reflection from the airport lounge

The past three days and half days have been a blur of French hospitality, aesthetically pleasing surroundings, and a conference that was well-worth my while.  Now that I have copious time between two flights, I can spend some time thinking about my impressions of Monaco.

The country is a narrow stretch of land between the sea and the tail-end of the Alps.  High-rise apartment buildings are built up the steep mountains, and in general it is a very hilly city to walk, but the increase in exercise balances out the food excesses. Space is at a premium and creatively used.  The architecture in general reflects a Mediterranean influence, and local granite, marble, and terra cotta tiles are used.  Outside of Singapore, it is the cleanest city I have ever been in.
 
The few kilometers of country are roughly divided into several neighborhoods, and without traffic, it seems like it only takes fifteen minutes from one end to the other.  Every time we took the bus from our hotel in Fountvielle to the Grimaldi Forum, it felt like a tour.

There is no passport control.  Monaco is essentially a French protectorate, so there is also no immigration post at the border.  In fact, there is not even a "Bienvenue à Monaco" sign.  With the exception of the red and white flags of the Principality flying everywhere, there would be little difference between the two countries except that Monegasques seem to be fiercely proud of their tiny city state.  

Boutiques, galleries, and cafes dot the waterfront, and in this off-season the atmosphere was laidback, giving me the feeling that I had the place to myself.  The area I enjoyed the most was Le Rocher, the pedestrian-only part of the city, high on a hill.  The palace and cathedral look over the rest of the country from a walled fortress. Everything was tastefully done, almost to the point of understatement.  No garish displays, no flaunting of the enormous wealth it is famous for. There seems to be a Catholic church on every corner, and I think historically there are strong ties to the Vatican.

The French of course prefer to speak their language, so I tried really hard with my remedial phrases.  Most of the time, it seemed appreciated and they graciously switched over to English.  Predictably, the service was outstanding.  The food of course was too.  Even the so-called fast food places we saw look appealing.  Our food was served in small portions with robust and yet also complimentary flavors.  Naturally, the fruit also was smaller and tastier that what I am used to. Yes, the Monegasques know all about Joie de vivre.

There is a James Bond element here - the helicopter pad was located steps away from my hotel.  Women are well-dressed.   Cocktails in swank bars were upwards of thirty euros.  The three harbors were parking lots for the largest yachts I have ever seen.  On land, I saw Ferrari and Rolls Royce dealerships. It seemed like a faux pas to ask for a test drive though.

Of course real people live and work here too, and I enjoyed my time in Carrefour, a French store we also have in Kuwait similar to a Super Target in style and design.  Of course this store was nothing like in Kuwait.  The cheese aisle, pate selection, and wine offerings were immense.  I also saw cashmere sweaters in plastic wrap on sale for 39 euros and silk scarves.  Needless to say there was no acrylic in this place.  Next door was Decathlon, a sporting goods store, full of ski equipment and clothing.  Initially overwhelmed, I actually found a pair of ski pants that I'll need for a trip to Innsbruck in February, and remarkably it was cheaper than what I could buy in the US.  Our shuttle driver told us that is occasionally snows but it never stays.  It is rarely truly cold and people stay outside for most of the year.  To have that and skiing so close is truly the best of both worlds!

I was glad to attend the conference.  While the sessions were ok, the networking opportunities were outstanding.  Rarely did connections take six degrees of separation; common ground was instead found in one or two.  Schools were represented from all over the world - Mongolia to Argentina to Taiwan to Zimbabwe.  Many of the college reps who had visited our school in Kuwait were also there and I met many others.  There were four or five people that I hung out with during free time, and we had some really great conversations.

I felt good about my presentation and it was a boost to get so much positive feedback.  It was the only session of its kind dealing with psychosocial aspects, and there is a need to have more in the areas of dealing with parents, ethical issues with applications, and stress management for counselors.  I will need this boost as I return to Kuwait.

Now, as I sit in Germany, I also appreciate the common sense, good taste, and efficiency.  This has been a good mental break for me and I wish Russ could have joined me.

Eddy Merckx and ham rolls

It's been quite a day and I am not even sure where to start.

My presentation went over extremely well.  How do I know this?  People responded with questions, gave scenarios, and there was a good discussion overall.  Thank goodness for fifty minutes, but we actually went over the time, which is always a good sign when you are the one up front.

It was an amazing day - totally intellectually stimulating being around so many people on the international counseling scene.  Good breakout sesssions.  Gorgeous day outside (I skipped one session to walk along the waterfront).  It completely reminds me of Santa Barbara and Montecito; even the air smells the same. 

Let me start by describing last night.  I slept for the first time since the Berkshires with the window open and it was silent.  Until the birds started chirping in the pre-dawn hours.  Incredible way to start the day.  The sun only came up at 7:00.

I had a lovely breakfast at the hotel, in true European fashion with hard boiled eggs, cheese, and cured meats on crusty rolls (which I normally don't eat except that it seemed to be a major faux paux to pass up.)  I also had yogurt and muesli which is what I typically consume except that it tasted so much more, well French.  Then we arrived at the Grimaldi Forum where I consumed more than one chocolate croissant.  I mean, how can one come to Europe and not partake in the decadent pastries?  Lunch was a three-course affair with a wine selection and view of the Mediterranean.  Did I mention that this is actually a work trip?

I am happy to have met two delightful women here (who begged me to remain anonymous).  One I knew previously and the other I just met yesterday.  We met up after the conference and walked over to the infamous Monaco Casino, which is exactly as you might imagine from any James Bond movie you've seen.  It was quite glamorous, except that we did not see anyone in a tuxedo with martini in hand, this of course being Wednesday evening at 6:30.  We blew five euro each on the slots, not winning anything and walked next door to the "Sparkling Cocktail Reception" to which we had been invited.

Champagne flutes were handed to us as we entered the rooftop lounge of the Fairmont.  What happened next was a blur.  The president of the European University started talking about this Tour de France champion who was somehow supporting a new sports administration major, and I looked over and knew without doubt and before his name was announced that it was Eddy Merckx.  Then I started (mildly) freaking out, like "I have to get a photo, no one is going to believe this".  My camera died.  But fortunately, my colleague took a photo of me and Eddy as he was walking out.  I probably embarrassed myself  gushing "Hi I'm Stephanie, I am such a big fan, my husband is not going to believe this."  Crazy American.  He was of course quite gentile and gracious.  Looks good for his age.  Not quite as high on the list as when we talked to Desmond Tutu in 2003, but still resonated star power.

Meanwhile my two comrades were fixated on the food which of course was top-notch...even the ham rolls, which were little finger sandwiches were tucked away into clear plastic Christmas balls.  Somehow along the way the three of us decided that these were most desired and we ended up each snatching and stashing several each.  I am not sure what I am going to do with them but there was talk about how they would make perfect Christmas decorations, minus the roll.  We have the champagne to blame but it was a small price to pay for an outrageously funny evening.  I felt like I was twenty years old and out on my own for the first time.  We are all in our forties, and it was a complete riot.

More about the food.  Gold dust seems to be a popular addition to serious dark chocolate creations.   Now, getting ready for bed, how can I possibly eat again?  Tomorrow is another day and anything is possible.  Yes, this is a work trip.

The long road to Monaco

The week was already off to a good start.  Early Sunday morning, we received the text that school was cancelled because of the 50^th anniversary of Kuwait’s constitution.  The timing was perfect.  During the previous week we had the school’s accreditation process while at the same time students were making up tests from the Eid holiday and getting ready for the end of the quarter.  It was a week filled with too many meetings to count, anxious college applicants, and numerous differences of opinion.  We were mentally and physically tired.  So, to have a day to do a whole lot of nothing was gift.  We slept in, went to the gyms, watched tv, racked a batch of wine, and pretty much nothing else. 

I am now in the Principality of Monaco, for my first Council of International Schools (CIS) conference.  My ticket in was the submission of a workshop proposal entitled “Addressing the Emotional Needs of College Applicants”, which was surprisingly accepted.  It should be nothing new to these folks but I hope to spin the paradigm a bit in which we work.  That will happen tomorrow.  Today, I had the great pleasure to explore this tiny country, which I can pretty much navigate on foot from the hotel. 

Right away this trek outside of Kuwait was different than any other.  I arrived at the airport at 11 pm to find no one there, and a general calm which is in stark contrast to how it usually is. I settled into the Pearl Lounge and once again gave thanks for having secured a Diner’s Club card that gave me access. It is really is a more sophisticated way to travel  especially with the prospect of flying business class outside my grasp.  Likewise, the plane was not full, and for the first time in recent memory, I was able to stretch out over an entire row.  That meant that I actually got to sleep for a few hours, which in itself was remarkable.  Furthermore, arriving at the Frankfurt airport was a pleasant surprise.  At 5:30 am, it was incredibly quiet and I was able to find a quiet dark corner.  I forewent the lounge as it is requires switching terminals and going through passport control twice.  I just was not up to it today.  It remained dark outside until about 7:30 and the temperature was just below freezing!

We arrived in Nice in the late morning.  Flying over the Alps was spectacular and coming into the French Riviera was just as you might imagine - yachts and sailboats dotting the harbors, the clear waters of the Meditteranen, and  steep mountains reaching down to the seas.  Open space is at a premium, and buildings seems to be built on top of each other.  

I was happy to see Ross, a veteran counselor from Kuwait who I knew another conference, and Leslie, my former boss from Simon's Rock College.  After the hour bus ride from Nice, Isettled in to the Hotel Columbus, a small boutique hotel on the waterfront.  I love the view from my room and I'll leave the window open for the first time since leaving the Berkshires.  It was sunny and pleasantly warm, a nice change from the dusty heat of Kuwait and the grey dampness of Frankfurt.

Found a small cafe to eat a late lunch at in the Old City (which is closed to cars and features pedestrian only alleys and streets) and then walked around for a few hours.  It is all very French, and awfully expensive.  Foregoing dinner, I am now getting things ready for the conference and the presentation tomorrow.