Alexandria

It has been one busy month at school so I was especially grateful to change up my environment for a weekend.  Back in July, I was invited to Alexandria, Egypt by New York University Abu Dhabi (NYUAD).  The campus is located in the United Arab Emirates (UAE) but in wanting to reach out to the counselors in the western part of the region (in which we are the furthest east), they held the session here.   I have been excited about the opportunity to go to this Mediterranean port city for months.

                                                    

The university took care of all of the flight and hotel arrangements and flew me in a half day before the conference started.  We arrived in the late morning on Thursday to the airport one hour to the west of the city.  We arrived quite literally in the middle of the desert, and I felt like I had never left Kuwait.  The group’s travel agent met me and with another woman from Kuwait (who works at the nearby English Academy), and whisked us through customs and immigration.  That was fantastic.  We drove through the beige corridor and finally along the coast which brought us to this ancient seaport.  It was not a triumphant entry.  Although teeming with character, the city looked rundown and dirty.  The streets were swarming with black and yellow early model Fiats and there seemed to be an urgency to everyday life here.  Lovely beaches, ideal temperatures, and charming outdoor cafes must be the reason why most of Cairo and the surrounding area still comes here in the hot months. 

The hour drive brought us to the doorstep of The Four Seasons, a palatial hotel furnished in a blue and yellow French Provence décor.  After collapsing with complete joy in settling into my spacious and opulent room overlooking the water, I went down to the Italian café for lunch.  I was the only person in the restaurant but had three people taking care of me.  During my entire stay, I did not see one Western tourist, and was later told that the country suffers from 90% unemployment for people under the age of 30.  So those three people were the lucky ones who seemed relieved that someone showed up. 

Noting that I was American, the waiter was keen to know my impressions of the people and the country, which I interpreted as “don’t judge us by what you see on the news”.  What I told him truthfully is how nice it was to meet so many helpful and friendly people, a distinct change from Kuwait.  He suggested a large Tucson salad with bruschetta for lunch accompanied by a light Egyptian rosé, and followed by a lemon sorbet.  Perfect.  He asked what I wanted to see in the city and wrote out directions for a taxi to take me to Kom al-Dikka, the oldest Roman ruins in Africa.  I had thought those were in Libya but that’s what the Lonely Planet said anyway.  Another man at the hotel arranged for a taxi driver who deftly navigated the crowded streets.  In other words, we survived the traffic.  Arriving downtown, the small complex of columns, arches and rubble was significantly less impressive than the National Geographic book described.  I was resigned to walk around the gated enclosure, because I could not find anyone at the ticket area.  So I took a few photos and walked through the streets filled with stores and vendors.  The bustling souk showcased gorgeous fruits and everyday wares at significantly cheaper prices than in Kuwait.

I caught a taxi back to the hotel.  The weather was at least twenty degrees cooler than I was used to in Kuwait, but still rather warm in the sun.  None of the taxis were air conditioned so I was ready for a swim in the lovely terrace pool and stayed around to watch the sun set.

Abi, my colleague from Kuwait, invited me to dinner and we chose a more formal dining room in the hotel.  Alexandria is known for its fish, and I had mussels and clams in a tomato-based broth, antipasti, and a different wine from the same vineyard in Upper Egypt.  Originally from the UK, Abi and her husband have been in Kuwait for ten years and they seem to enjoy it.  We had lovely conversation and shared an affinity for dessert which we naturally indulged in.

NYU certainly fed us well.  A sumptuous buffet awaited us twelve hours later in the airy breakfast room and the conference ensued.  While we had a light schedule in the morning that allowed me to sit and read on the beach for forty-five minutes, the afternoon sessions lasted nine hours, culminating in a late dinner at the hotel’s Lebanese restaurant.   There was a short hour break in the late afternoon schedule, and I thought I could peak into the Bibliotheca down the street.  This modern version of Alexandria’s fabled library was rumored to be spectacular, but when I arrived it had already closed which was more than a minor disappointment. 

Gone already is the Lighthouse and two or three obelisks, but it still would have been nice to see some of the other landmarks that the city  can boast – Pompey’s Pillar, the Catacombs, and statue of Cleopatra.  It would be nice to say “next time”, but I don’t see the possibility of another trip here.

The whirlwind journey lasted forty-eight hours as we were up at 3:15 am to catch a taxi to the airport for a 7:15 departure.  That of course gave us more than ample time and we were stuck at the tiny smoky airport for a time much longer than necessary, in a minor state of delirium from lack of sleep.

It wasn’t until I got back to Kuwait that I realized how much I had needed the break.  I met some fascinating people, got some good information, and had a lovely getaway.  Hopefully that will buoy me in what will be another hectic week ahead.